The ocean can be one of the most peaceful places or the wildest place on earth, but no matter the situation the ocean is food for the watermen’s soul. We know this sounds completely cheesy, but there is something that changes your perspective on life when you go into that saline water. Surfing is an excellent example of how the ocean rejuvenates the mind, body, and soul. Life becomes simpler sitting on a surfboard, you smile, laugh, whoop when you or your friends get the wave of the session, and you become child-like with no thoughts of future or past just the here and now.
We love surfing and here is why:
Time-out/time-in:
Surfing is an amazing way of taking time out from hectic jobs, rat race lifestyles and heavy emotional situations. When stress levels get too high or we just need a break from everyday life, jumping into the ocean makes us all forget about everyday problems- especially when the waves cooperate. Waves are like drugs/alcohol to surfers in the sense that your mind receives a mini holiday, and those previously daunting problems just don’t seem to affect you like they did before paddling out. Unlike drugs/alcohol there is no hangover or long term consequences from surfing too much you come away feeling refreshed, enlightened, and inspired.
Fitness:
There is a reason why surfers look fit- surfing sculpts our bodies and on big days it is a work-out like no-other. For those that stand-up paddle, simply paddling around on a small day improves your stamina, rips your torso muscles, and builds arm, leg, and chest muscles. It is when we’re not surfing that we become aware of our fitness levels. The days that inspire us the most are those when we are too tired to take another stroke and come in completely exhausted. To be totally “surfed-out” from perfect surf is what surfers dream about and every time we reach that point of exhaustion it conditions us for the next epic day.
Travel:
Need an excuse to travel? Surfing is the answer. The earth’s surface is 72% water, and about 97% of that is salt water. There are waves around the world in hundreds of countries, in all sorts of climates, conditions and crowds. Exploring new places, civilizations and ways of life through surfing is all part of what it means to be a surfer.
Attitude:
Surfing teaches you to be humble and patient. Man cannot create ocean waves. Sure, some wave parks are beginning to look appealing, but the aesthetics of the ocean environment can never be matched by man’s technology. The inconsistencies of the ocean teach us to be patient and wait for that perfect day when all factors line up and we surf like there is no tomorrow. There’s no rushing nature. Heavy surf and seas remind us of how small and unimportant we really are.
Beauty:
Surfing is one of the best ways to see all the beauty that this planet has to offer, whether it is stormy or sheet glass, surfing surrounds you with beauty. Surfers know that the best place to watch and experience a sunset is atop a surfboard, with a million changing colors, sunlight penetrating through the backs of waves, and flourishing sea life abound, it is one experience that everyone should have at some point in their life.
